Floral Francaise, Part I

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In 2022, in the early days of my dive into the 18th century, I fell in love with the most gorgeous reproduction cotton block print fabric on Etsy. It is based on the gown above, but I didn't know that when I saw it and immediately pictured a robe a la Francaise. This is why, when I discovered the images of the original housed at LACMA, I was gobsmacked. How often does your imagination dream up the extant garment? While I knew I wanted this project to happen, I was still unsure and intimidated by the amount of work that would go into a garment like this.

I put it on my "someday" list and moved ahead in creating more 18th century pieces, growing my skills and expanding my comfort zone with more ambitious new creations and revisiting items I'd already made to improve them. As I completed the trim for my caracao and petticoat (read about it here), it felt natural for my next project to be even more ambitious. And then, a friend told me about an 18th century ball coming up that winter which gave me the final push (spoiler alert: didn't make it). 

Aesthetic inspiration image
 

Step one was proper pocket hoops. I wanted a tamer option as seen in saque-back gowns of the 1770s, rather than the more dramatic panniers of the 1750s or 1760s (although I am obsessed with the fabrics used for these gowns). In deciding how wide they should be, I found this incredibly useful guide on the American Duchess blog. While I don't plan to make a grand pannier, as the article is referencing, the shapes and proportions were helpful to see. I have become more confident in regard to clothing of the 18th century, but being as this was my first foray into upper-class wear of the era, I still found myself becoming nervous about authenticity. However, panic overrode obsession, and I ended up throwing together a set of pocket hoops in a matter of an afternoon in order to meet a deadline.

My deadline was Camp UFO (unfinished object) at Ft. Ligonier in July of 2024. Hosted by Jess and Blair of PennyRiver Costumes, this was a big sewing circle to complete projects you'd been putting off, get expert help, or receive the push you needed to start something. For me, it was the latter. I had hoped to have my lining done in time to go as well, but the heatwave had kept me out of the sewing room. It actually turned out to be a good thing, because the pros helped me cut shapes to my body to create the lining. 

Basted pleats thanks to the experts!

The gown then sat in the tub of supplies I had taken to Camp UFO for almost a year. It was around April of this year (2025) that I finally pulled it out again and began to get to work. I even commissioned a custom pinking iron from The Elder Anvil to edge the trim and the sleeve ruffles. It seemed like I was really moving along and powering through. Things really started coming together just in time for us to pack up the whole house in July and August for the move: the body of the gown was 85% assembled. Pulling the gown back out after we moved, sometime in mid September, I was able to sew in the sleeves and baste the pleats in the front of the petticoat. However, as I worked, I had to admit to myself that while I loved the idea of this beautiful, elegant Francaise, I didn't really like the gown or the project very much. It didn't feel very fulfilling or very real. Maybe it's because I don't like working with cotton by hand, and have been doing mixed hand and machine sewing. Maybe it's because I'm struggling to envision the finished ensemble. Maybe it's because I can't imagine wearing it anywhere (I've never been to any historical event more formal than a very well-done WWII USO dance). Whatever the reason, I need some motivation for this one--an event, peer pressure, just some kind of deadline--to pick it back up. I don't plan to leave this in the naughty pile forever, but I think I need to take some time away to work on things that bring me joy before revisiting. Watch this space for eventual completion, and in the meantime, if you have a good solid deadline, send it my way.

Current state of affairs

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