A Reversible Jacket or Shortgown of Linen and Cotton

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Jacket, bedgown, shortgown. There seems to be a lot of overlap in both definition and construction with these short, everyday pieces to cover the torso. In fact, the more I researched, the more confusing it got. Buckle up folks, because this is going to be a long one. Disclaimer: I am not a professional researcher! But I have been doing a lot of searching of museum databases, books, and asking questions of those who know more than me. I'm continuing to do a research deep dive, and will be sharing my findings in an upcoming post. For now, I want to be sure that I have something to wear to Williamsburg at the end of the month, so I need something. But what? 

In a fit of impatience, I went ahead and made up view C from J.P. Ryan's jacket pattern, and I have to say, I'm pleased with the fit. I'm long-waisted, and this typically means adding between .75 and 1.25 inches to most patterns I make between underbust and waist. This is part of why my first shortgown was such a disaster--I foolishly thought that perhaps 18th century garments would be different. However, my wearable muslin of this pattern made up like it was made for me! 

Muslin fitting

I made it using a combination of the modern techniques given in the instructions and period hand-finishing, which makes it reversible. The lining is a red and cream woven check. While the weave is identical to some fabric samples of the era in pattern, I have yet to find a match in red--they all appear to be blue. If I can find a match, I want to have the option of wearing this side because I just really like it. That fabric was thrifted, but it still had the original remnant tag from Needle & Thread on it, so you know it's the good stuff. The outside proper is a chestnut colored linen. I truly can't remember if I got this from Needle & Thread or Jo-Ann fabrics.

UPDATE: In The Holker Album, examples of cotton-linen blend fabric of white and red plaid can be found. They are linen warp with a red cotton weft. Below are two of the examples as well as plaids very similar in design to that of the fabric in my jacket. With this knowledge, I will be wearing this jacket to its full reversible glory in the future! 

Fabric samples from The Holker Album

There is some gapping at the bustline, but it's due to the way I pinned the stomacher in. I plan to tack one side down so that I can avoid this issue in the future.

With apron over. Also showing off my new market bonnet!

I am opting to just wear the stomacher pinned in, rather than laced as I'm not finding as many image references for this style at that time as I would like. I'm still very new to this space and want to cross my "t"s and dot my "i"s as carefully as possible. I have seen a lot of images of women in short gowns or jackets with a handkerchief over the front of the garment (as in the image above), so this is how I plan to wear it for now. If, in the course of my research, I discover more examples of laced jackets and shortgowns for working class women in the 1770s, it's a simple task to add eyelets. If you have examples, please share them! I'm always eager to learn.

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