I mentioned in my last post that I had found a lengthy yardage of blue striped cotton and I was planning to make it up using Black Snail 219. She's complete! The pattern was quite simple, with only a handful of pieces. Where the pattern called for standard straight seams (skirt, sleeves), I opted to use my sewing machine, which was a big time-saver. The bodice and hems I did by hand. Authenticity is good, but when you've got the kind of schedule that requires all hand sewing to be done as a part of multitasking, "cheating" makes it possible to complete projects in a more timely manner. By only doing my hand sewing while I listen to lectures for school or watch a movie in the evening with my husband, I find that I can indulge the creativity that keeps me happy while making sure I'm using all of my time wisely (and avoiding the guilt that comes with feeling like I've wasted time).
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Back seaming details
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I made very few modifications to this pattern. I found it to be an excellent fit right from the paper, with the only change being my usual shortening of the sleeves. This style calls for slightly overlong sleeves, per the fashion in 1810, but with my shorter-than-average arms, the sleeves would have been hanging down past my fingertips and then some. Overall length, bust, and shoulders required no modification. I do think after trying this on with the chemisette that I need to modify the collar of the chemisette just a little. I had difficulty getting the collar to lay right, and I think I know why. On many patterns, particularly those with collars, I find that the center back neckline rides up just a little too high. I end up with the seam where collar and bodice join sitting up closer to my C5, instead of at the base of my neck, making for an uncomfortable fit. I'll be removing the collar and re-attaching it on a curve close to an inch more at its apex. This should remedy the issue and help the collar stand up better as well.
Overall, I'm really loving this elegant, breezy style with simple front tie closure, and I will definitely be making this pattern again. Even though I just tossed this on after work with a sloppy updo, I felt really wonderful in this gown. Is "Jane Austen Summer" a thing? Let's make it a thing.
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