Shift and Pocket

Things started to feel like they were coming together at this point.

Shift

The shift for my ensemble was made using the same Simplicity pattern from American Duchess as my stays. The fabric is a white, lightweight linen, a lucky Jo-Ann's find. When I had enough of my ensemble together to photograph, I shared photos with a trusted group of reenacting ladies for helpful critiques. One of the main improvements they mentioned, in addition to a bedgown, was to add cuffs to my shift, as women's shifts still had cuffs at this point in history. Using scrap fabric, of which I had just enough, and antique bone buttons, I added a narrow cuff to the gathered sleeve. 

 

You might notice that there is not much of a placket or buttonhole on my cuff. This is because I definitely cheated it. I undid the seam at the edge of the sleeve, gathered it, and added a cuff band. The fabric is such a loose weave, that undoing the felled seam and putting in a buttonhole seemed like a disastrous option. For now, it looks all right, but when I make my next shift, I plan to do things correctly. I also think that for my next shift (a necessity if I plan on doing any events), I will follow the pattern in Costuming Close Up. It will be interesting to compare the construction notes.

Pockets

The pockets are not a historically accurate fabric, but I knew they wouldn't be seen under my petticoat, and I could have a little fun with them. I took advantage of this by using a fabric that is special to me: my favorite skirt from The Limited which I had all through junior high and high school. However, a tragic accident with a bottle of red nail polish put an end to its days being worn. I've never been sentimental about clothes, but I kept this skirt in my scrap bag for literally over a decade, waiting to repurpose it. Originally, it had some deep horizontal tucks. With those picked out, the rayon skirt was exactly long enough to lay out the pattern pieces. Using J.P. Ryan's "Shift, Petticoat, Short Gown, Apron, Handkerchief, and Pocket" pattern, I initially made only one pocket, but decided quickly that I wanted a pair. After all, if one pocket the size of a cat is good, two is better! As someone with medical issues, I have to carry a lot of things around with me on a regular basis. These pockets are better than a purse when it comes to carting around my phone, tester, insulin pens, and snacks, all without looking like I've got a thing on me. I highly recommend bringing back the 18th century pocket for everyday life.