Cardinal Red Cloak

 

It's been over a year since I really got this project underway. Due to my project funk from struggles with the JP Ryan English gown pattern, I didn't get any sort of gown, long or short, finished for summer. I've decided to move forward with working on the winter needs for my ensemble. The chocolate wool gown, was my starting point. However, that's not enough to keep a body warm in the winter out here!

According to my research, red cloaks were ubiquitous in the mid to late 18th century, and worn even into the early 19th century, although they had generally fallen somewhat out of fashion toward the end of the time we see them referenced. They were most common in the country, and could be plain or dressed up with trims. They were first worn by the "landed gentry" in England but their easy importability to the colonies made them popular and common in the US by the late 18th century. Looking through the list of extant examples (many with images) on Larsdatter's 18th Century Notebook, the overwhelming majority are listed as being red. They were also known as "Cardinals," and this appears to be in large part due to their color. If you're interested, early 19th century examples can be seen in a delightful book of Regency-era illustrations shared here, on the Jane Austen website. The illustrations themselves are charming, and remind me of the Tasha Tudor books I saw as a little girl. 

I was given 3+ yards of a beautiful scarlet wool coating for Christmas a few years back. My mom is the queen of the deals, and she picked all of it up for less than $5 at a thrift store! It's vibrant and soft, and has been sitting in my stash for far too long. I had considered making a 1930s or 1940s coat from it, but my dream 30s coat is in a rather more subdued colorway. I think in the back of my mind, I've always been saving it for an 18th century cloak. Using the pattern from Costuming Close Up, I did the math and cut it out. I'll spare you my whole process, but as I don't have a hard surface to work on (sewing room floor is carpet), my system involves the less-than-professional approach of placing pins in the fabric at strategic points and eyeballing most of the rest with the help of my French curve.

I received much help during assembly

The instructions provided in the book are bare bones, but the project is simple enough that a knowledgeable beginner should be able to follow. I used my sewing machine to put the main seams in, so I finished the bulk of it in an evening. The most difficult bit was the fan pleats at the back of the hood. I did do these by hand, and found the process images from the Dreamstress to be invaluable in figuring out construction. Fan pleats are nothing I've previously heard of, and they are very much the sort of thing that makes perfect sense once they have been explained, but mind boggling to sort out on your own. 

I used this cloak from the collection of Colonial Williamsburg as my inspiration for trimmings.

Researching linings and finishing, it appears that many cloaks were left with the bottom hem unfinished, as the weave of any wool suitable to a winter cloak is not prone to fraying. Between lined and unlined, extant examples appear to be split. Those that are not lined, though, do appear to have been finished with edging, and some have the hood lined, if nothing else. Because my budget didn't allow for a proper, quality silk lining, I decided not to line it, but purchased red silk ribbon for binding the edges. I was lucky to get the last 3.5 yards in the store, and it was the perfect amount to go around the front opening! When I was finished sewing it on, I had a whopping eight inches to spare. Unfortunately, this meant that I didn't have enough silk ribbon left to close the neckline with ties, and used a sturdy vintage metal hook and handmade fabric loop to close it. Per historical references, it would be accurate to cut slits in the wool for my hands, but I can't bear to slice into it for fear I'll make a mistake. So, for now I'll make do without holes for my arms, as I don't have any current plans to wear it for wintery living history events.

My own silk binding in-process.

You can see the antique brass hook and fabric loop eye here.